Our Breeding Process:

Disclaimer: Breeding day geckos requires a tremendous amount of time and money. It is not a quick way to make money, nor is it an easy way to make money. Please only attempt to take on this hobby if you have the time, to dedicate to their care, and the heart, to love these amazing and beautiful animals.

Breeding:

Our adult geckos are kept in naturalistic and fully planted vivariums. Some of our vivariums even include water features. They are, in essence, miniature ecosystems and allow our geckos to feel comfortable enough to thrive and mate, in captivity. The geckos mate and lay their eggs on plants or in bamboo, just as they would in nature. Good diet and vitamin/calcium supplementation are also key in achieving success with captive breeding.

Incubation:

Certain Phelsuma species glue their eggs to where ever they are laid. Unfortunately, this section will not apply to the gluing species, due to the fact that attempting to remove their eggs will almost always cause them to crack. for the species that do glue, we allow their eggs to hatch out insitu (in the vivarium). For our species that do not glue their eggs; Their eggs are removed and placed into a deli cup, halfway filled with moist Pangea Hatch incubation medium. Phelsuma hatchling sex are temperature determined. In our experience, 83 degrees F and above produce mostly males. 80 degrees F and below produce mostly females. 81-82 degrees F produce an even mix of both.

The eggs are incubated from 40-45 days. After hatching, the hatchlings are kept in the incubator for an additional 24 hours. This ensures that they safely complete their first shed, which we have learned, is a very important step in their growth process. Additionally, due to the very dim lighting in the incubator and constant/steady temperature, the gecko’s eyes are not damaged by any bright LED lighting system. They aren’t subjected to any drastic fluctuation in temperature either.

Rearing Tank:

After their 24 hour stay in the incubator (quarantine cup), they are placed into the rearing tank (smaller, lightly planted vivarium), with other hatchlings of their same species and similar age. They are kept in the rearing tank until two months of age. While in this tank, they begin to climb on the various plants and bamboo and really hone in on their hunting skills, hunting pinhead sized crickets and Hydei fruit flies. They are also offered various flavors of Pangea, Repashy and Lugarti Meal Replacement Powders. Humidity in this tank is generally maintained at around 85%+ Relative Humidity.

Grow-Out Tank:

After their two month stay in the rearing tank, the juveniles are then placed into our traditionally planted and naturalistic vivariums, where they are kept until sold. While in this tank, their diet changes from small fruit flies and pinhead crickets, to slightly larger, “size appropriate” crickets. Humidity in this tank is lowered slightly and maintained at 60%+ Relative Humidity.

Vivariums 101:

Vivarium: An enclosure or container where live animals or plants are kept under conditions simulating their natural environment.

Enclosure:

• “Shell” of your vivarium.

• Exo-Terra, Zoo-Med or Reptizoo, to name a few.

• Front opening (easier accessibility/maintainability), glass doors and side panels. Metal screen mesh lid for balanced humidity, ventilation and allowance of UV rays from UVB bulbs.

• Taller enclosure VS. wider, due to allowance of taller branches and bamboo, providing geckos room to climb.
  
  

Background:

• “Backbone” of the vivarium. Can contain a water feature, such as a waterfall. CAUTION: DO NOT have large open bodies of water, anywhere in the vivarium. Geckos WILL find their way in and drown!

• Will be the foundation for tropical plants, vines and orchids to grow on.

• Either make your own DIY background or purchase. We personally prefer Universal Rock realistic backgrounds due to their durability and design. They look real!!

• When adhering the background to your vivarium glass, us aquarium safe silicone to seal the sides to prevent any smaller sized geckos from climbing behind the background. It is an EXTREME pain to get them out from behind the background, after everything is set up. Trust us!
  
  

False Bottom/Drainage Layer:

• Mechanical False Bottom: PVC egg crate zip tied together to create an elevated platform, separating the substrate from the water table below.

• Wrap the top and sides of the egg crate with either charcoal screen mesh (what you commonly see on screen windows or screen doors) or weed blocker.

• Fill in the front space, side space and back space, between the glass and false bottom, with aquarium gravel. This will not only hide the PVC False Bottom, it will allow water to pass through which will be extremely beneficial if you decide to include a water feature.
  
  

Water Feature (If Desired):

• Water pump (small fountain pumps available online, reasonably priced), housed and hidden under the false bottom. Run the tubing and wiring behind the background, up and out from the vivarium.

• Use an air stone under the false bottom, connected to a tube that also runs behind the background and out to an air pump that is located out side of the tank. This will pump air into the false bottom and aerate the substrate. It will also prevent the water from becoming stagnant.

• An aquarium water heater (rated for 5-10 gallons) will heat the water and assist with raising the overall humidity within the vivarium. Will also raise the ambient temperature inside of the vivarium, during cooler/winter months.

Substrate:

• ABG (Atlanta Botanical Gardens) substrate is sold by many companies, such as: Josh’s Frogs, NEHERP, Glass Box Tropicals and The Bio Dude, just to name a few.

• Can easily make your own by mixing coco-coir with sphagnum moss, smashed up charcoal, dried leaves and whatever else you decide to incorporate (think compost).

Lighting:

• If you go with an Exo-Terra tank (our tank of choice), you can purchase a light housing canopy that fits directly on top of the tank. It can house multiple bulbs and can be connected to a timer for a sunrise/sunset effect.

• LED grow bulbs (we have had the best success with Josh’s Frogs 13 watt LEDs), use very little electricity and provide the perfect light spectrum that the plants need to grow and thrive.

• Incorporate a UVB bulb or two if you decide to house any species of day geckos in your vivarium. They can be used in conjunction with your LED lights.

Ventilation:

• Small fans, generally made for computers, can be mounted inside of your light housing unit and connected to a timer, to simulate wind gusts and provide fresh air to the inhabitants of the vivarium.

• Many species of bromeliads and orchids greatly benefit and thrive in vivariums that incorporate fans.

Plants And Decor:

• Now this part is completely up to you! If you are unsure what to plant in your tank, or how to set up your decor, simply search “Rainforest images” on the internet and pick a favorite image or two. Print out the picture(s) and begin the replication process! Start with branches, rocks, cork bark or cork rounds and let your imagination run wild. Before you know it, you’ll be bouncing from website to website, trying to find just the right plants that will grow perfectly into the tropical scene that you just created! HAVE FUN!